reviseren WUR + uitleg werking

[Scotch]

Kwam dit verhaal tegen op 924board.org



The article on making the WUR adjustable is by Jay Pineau, Ark-La-Tex Region, PCA, in Volume VII, pages 116-117 of Up-Fixin. In case you don't have that, here is the text:

"An engine equipped witha Bosch CIS (K-Jetronic) fuel injection system depends on the accuracy of the control pressure for starting and drivability performance. If during a system pressure and performance test it is determined that the warm-up regulator is at fault, you are faced with an alternative: replace it (list price now about $280) or attempt to repair it.

The regulator is a fairly simple device which varies the control pressure with temperature (both engine and self-induced via an internal heating element). There are two main causes of malfunction: heating element failure and foreign material in the metering chamber.

A quick check with an ohm meter will determine if the heating element is defective. It should read 18 to 22 ohms resistance (I didn't get this exact reading, but it wasn't an open circuit). If the element is faulty, the regulator must be replaced unless you can locate a replacement heating element from a used regulator.

If satisfactory, the regulator can be carefully disassembled and cleaned. Take care that the two small orifices are completely clear. If the diaphragm shows any wear, flip it over at reassembly. (Be careful here--the diaphragm is VERY thin metal. I didn't disassemble the bimetal spring, just pushed it aside to remove the diaphragm.)

After reinstallation, it may (WILL) require readjustment to obtain correct pressure relationships. (These pressures vary with the year of the car and the part number of the WUR. You can find them in the shop manual. If you don't have them, I can xerox and snail-mail)

Bruce Anderson described in PANORAMA (October 1984) how this adjustment can be accomplished by "knocking the plug". The only problem with this procedure is if you "knock" it in too far, you must remove and reassemble the regulator to "knock" it back (indeed true, I tried this method). By the time you have obtained the best cold and hot values, you may have to do it several times.

The unit can be modified to provide for external adjustments by the addition of a pull-out screw and nut which permits very accurate movement of the plug."

The article also includes a diagram, but essentially you drill and tap a 5mm hole about 10mm deep into the center of the plug. Then drill a second 1.5mm hole in the crack between the plug and the WUR body. Put a 1.5mm roll pin in this hole and tap it down flush with the body (the idea is to keep the plug from rotating when you move it up and down with the pull-out screw).

Put a 5mm allen-head screw, with a washer slightly larger than the plug, and a 8mm diameter nut, into the 5mm hole. Keep the nut backed off, and gently tighten the screw until it bottoms in the hole. Now, to raise the plug (higher control pressure), hold the screw with an allen key and tighten the nut (it's a tight fit, but an 8mm box-end wrench should fit over the head of the screw). To lower the plug (lower control pressure), hold the screw, back the nut off, and then tap the screw (I use a brass drift and it takes a fairly hard whack).

Of course, while you are doing any adjustments, you need to be looking at the control pressure. I bought a CIS gauge from J.C. Whitney for less than $60. Be sure that the electrical connector to the WUR is disconnected when setting cold control pressure, and that the engine is dead cold. To get the fuel pump to run, jump terminals 30 and 87a on the fuel pump relay socket (on my 83, it is the red relay in the luggage compartment).

If your car doesn't have an O2 sensor, you are completely dependent on correct fuel pressures and mixture setting to get the engine to run correctly, so the WUR is important. After I did the WUR modification, I am confident that I can set my engine up properly, and it starts and runs perfectly, cold or hot.

I hope this helps--if you want the diagram of the modification, send me an SASE at 30822 Alta Mira Drive, Redlands, CA 92373.

Bob Tindel
btindel@gte.net

[M.B.H.]

Ja dit is bekend bij mij.
Afstellen van de WUR MOET OP DE AUTO GEBEUREN !!!!!
Er zijn veel meer componenten die mee doen aan de drukhuishouding en Afstelling van de Moter.
Het verhaal klopt maar is bij langena niet kompleet . je moet alle andere componenten ook testen en meten.
Of je moet 100% zeker zijn dat het Alleen je Wur is, (en hoe stel je dat vast .)
maar dat is bijna nooit het geval.
Denk aan Druk - volumestroom pomp-en
Brandstoffilter
brandstofverdeler
Overdrukklepje
bypas klep voor warmstart
werking retourbrandstof naar de tank.
en interne lekkage's in het systeem.

Dus als iemand mij vraagd om een Goede WUR Ben ik heel voorzichtig Want wat is GOED. ik kan Nooit zonder auto een Wur leveren die 100 % goed werkt aleen warschijnlijk beter als de gene die op de Auto zit. ( dus 1 die niet lekt buiten zijn drukgebied waar hij op afgesteld is.)

[harry]

Dit verhaal had ik ook al eens gelezen. Klopt wat Matin zegt, alle componenten die mee doe in het systeem moeten dan wel 100% functioneren.
Vaak is dit niet het geval, zodat toch weer een verkeerde instelling krijgt. Ook al denk je dat je het goed hebt ingeregeld.

[rappendaf]

ik krijg die link van de wur niet open

[harry]

Ja klopt, ik krijg hem ook niet open. Hij zegt de file bestaat niet meer.......

[Larry]

Ik ook niet :-(

[Jayke]

Klopt, hendrik moet hem nog terug plaatsen. Ik heb het bestand, als je hem wil stuur me even een pm met je email adres, dan mail ik hem naar je

[Hendrik]

Hij werkt weer.

Er zat een spatie voor de extentie waardoor de download niet werkte.